Trail Ryder Support page
Assembly of Trail Ryder:
(click on pictures to enlarge, use browser back button to return)
These steps will work for either the Trail 70 or 90.
Much of this is in the manual. I am including this to provide the steps in more detail, that a particular step that you are unsure of, might become more understandable.
To some of you, putting together the bike will be natural and easy. However, there might be one step that is puzzling, so even you might benefit from reading through these steps before starting.
Like trying to explain how to drink a glass of water, the explanation may seem harder than the task itself.
Read the instructions through, before starting
(that way you won't be surprised by the next step)
Move the box to where you want to assemble it, make sure you have good lighting and enough room to work.
Gather the tools you need (at minimum you can use the tool kit that came with the bike). A socket set will help the job go quicker (metric 10, 14 & 17 are the most needed). A pair of diagonal cutters are handy to cut the wires holding the bike to the frame and to cut the strings that hold on the foam protective materials (pliers and scissors or knife will also work). some short pieces of 2x4 or 4x4 boards. Knife or razor and some paper towels or rags.
The crate comes with banding around it, cut the nylon banding and remove.
Lift the cardboard off the crate, exposing the metal frame and bike.
Remove the 4 nuts in each corner of the crate(10mm wrench), cut the 2 wires from the bike to the crate and carefully lift the angle iron portion of the crate strait up, and place away from your work area.
From under the rear wheel fender, remove the front fender, manual, and keys and carefully place them nearby.
Remove the front wheel assembly (the break assembly is tied to the wheel, leave it tied on for now), and place to the side.
Remove the seat, and place it to the side.
Cut the other 2 wires holding the bike to the crate.
Raise the handlebars and tighten the screws (it is easier to to lift and hold the bike using the handlebars).
(If possible, have another person help you hold the bike for this procedure) Using a 14mm and 17mm wrench (or socket set), unbolt the front axle nut and remove the axle from the crate (note the bushing on the axle, it will be used later). Lift the bike out of the crate and place on center stand (or if it has a side stand, place blocks of wood under engine to keep the forks off the ground). Have your helper steady the bike and keep the front from coming down when the weight of the wheel is added.
Remove the 4 bolts on the forks which will hold the fender on.
Unwrap the protective material from the Front fender, and loosely bolt the fender on (too tight and the wheel will be more difficult to fit between the forks).
Unwrap the protective material from the wheel. Cut the string holding on the brakes inside the wheel (be careful to keep it together). Place the axle bushing in the rubber on the right side of the wheel, lift the wheel up inside the forks (on the left fork there is a bump, the wheel has an indent that slides over the bump, preventing the whole brake assembly from spinning when the brake is applied). Slide the axle through the wheel, and secure with the axle nut. NOTE: This sounds easier than it is, it is a tight fit to raise the wheel inside the forks, having a 3rd person to help makes it easier (without the 2nd person holding the bike, it is even more difficult). The Axle too, in order to make it through, the wheel bushing and brake, it might be necessary to wiggle the wheel and rotate it. Turning the bolt, screwing it in also might help. Avoid hitting the bolt through as this might bend the threads, making the nut hard to screw onto the axle.
Tighten the front fender bolts, there is not much clearance, making it difficult to start the bolts if you forgot to bolt them on before the wheel.
The speedometer cable and brake cable needs to be run through the bracket on the fender.
Attach the speedometer cable by slipping it into the hole and threading on the nut. NOTE: The cable end has a slit that lines up inside, if the cable doesn't go all the way in, rotate the wheel to spin the gears until the cable slips into place.
Unscrew the brake adjustment hut on the brake cable, remove the round cylindrical piece and place it into the lever on the brake drum. Pull the cable into the slot by sliding the boot forward exposing the bare cable, let it come back and into the slot. Insert the brake cable back through the cylindrical piece, and screw the nut back on, adjusting the brakes so that the front handbrake doesn't pull all the way to the handlebar (a 1 inch gap is perfect). If the cable adjusts all the way in, but the brake is still not tight, it might be necessary to unbolt the arm on the brake hub, pull it off, rotate it 1 tooth on the spline, and tighten it down again.
Find the keys, and insert them into the seat lock (you will need them shortly).
On top of the frame, there is a hinge for the seat, there are 2 bolts barely screwed in, remove them. Unwrap the seat and bolt it on with the 2 bolts. Check the alignment to ensure that the seat closes strait (the rod that goes through the lock, should enter the hole, not hit the side etc.).
There is a passenger hang on handle (also is great for moving the bike) behind the seat that is pointing down, it will have to be unbolted, and turned over, so it faces up. Loosen the 2 nuts on the top portion of the rear springs. Remove the 2 bolts holding on the handle. Flip the handle over, ensuring that the ends go between the washer and the spring. Install the 2 bolts, tighten the nuts.
Place the battery in the compartment under the seat (be careful not to brake the ground wire that is attached to the rectifier behind the battery compartment, the battery might catch it and pull on it). Use the provided strap to fasten the battery in. Attach the power wire (has fuse holder on it), to the + side of the battery, being careful to route the wire so that the fuse holder out of the way so that the seat won't smash it when it closes. Attach the ground wire to the to the - side of the battery.
Adjust the chain: Loosen the rear axle bolt, using the alignment marks on the side of the swing arm, tighten the adjustment bolts a little at a time, keeping the wheel true by having the marks be the same on each side (the marks can be hard to see, you can check yourself by looking at the amount of threads sticking out from the nuts). The chain should have about 3/4 inch of play when pushed against (not tight feeling, or sloppy). Tighten the axle. NOTE: The adjusters only hold the wheel in adjustment while you tighten the axle, if the axle is not tight, the torque from the engine will pull against the adjuster and strip it.
Fill the tires with air, 36 PSI. NOTE: Use a tire gauge, don't guess, if the tires only have 20 PSI, the bike will seem gutless.
Check the engine oil level. With the bike level, unscrew the dipstick, wipe it clean, insert it (don't screw it in), pull it out and ensure that the level is in the hatch mark area, if not, add more (10-30). Avoid overfilling, since that will result in over pressure and blown seals. NOTE: The plastic threads are easily cross threaded, be very careful, after a few successful times, it will be easier, if you cross thread them, even once, they will always be problem.
Check the bike for loose bolts, especially check the shocks, and the bolts on top of the forks. The shifter and kick starter always comes from the factory loose, use a 10mm wrench to tighten it a bit, wiggle it to see if it is still loose, tighten it a 1/4 turn more check, tighten 1/4 etc. until it feels snug. NOTE: If the shifter or kick starter is very loose, tightening the screw might not synch it down enough (don't torque so hard that you break the bolt), it might be necessary to remove it and bend it together with a vice or wood / plastic / rubber mallet. Check the engine bolts and the swing arm bolt (behind the chain guard).
Connect the gas line to the shutoff valve (it is the black hose sticking out from the frame and laying on the engine). Slide the clip over the first set of bumps on the shutoff valve. NOTE: I recommend that you remove the gas cap, and gently try to blow through the hose before attaching it, just to be sure the hose is OK (There have been a few bikes that have had the gas line pinched). If it appears to be blocked (you can't easily blow through), call me at 206-849-5365, and I will talk you through the troubleshooting / repairing process.
Add gasoline (regular is fine, there is no reason to use premium). NOTE: This is a 4 stroke engine, DO NOT mix oil with the gas.
On the carburetor, there is a shutoff valve, turn the handle down (vertical).
Check the kill switch (red button by the right handle grip), push it several times, note how it toggles between in and out. IT MUST be OUT for the bike to start.
Insert the key into the ignition. turn it to the ON position (clockwise 1/4 turn).
Open the throttle 1/8 turn. Using the kick starter, give the bike 1 kick. If it starts carefully and slowly give it a little gas. If it didn't start, pull the choke lever on the left handgrip to the left and give it 1 kick. If still didn't start, increase the throttle slightly and kick again. The bike usually starts on the 1st kick, if it hasn't fired by the 3rd kick, check the key, kill switch, and gas shutoff valve (there is Phillips screw on the right side, near the bottom of the carburetor to drain the gas from the bowl; loosen it, and check to see if that gas is flowing out the tube that is attached to the bottom of the carburetor). After verifying that there is gas, and the key is on and the kill switch is in the out position, repeat the above steps. If you have followed all the above steps, and the bike didn't start, call me; 206-849-5365.
The throttle cable has an adjustment near the grip that takes up extra slack, while the engine is idling tighten it until the RPMs pick up, then back it off 1 turn. To loose, the throttle feels unresponsive, it is hard to give it 1/8 throttle to start the bike. NOTE: To tight and RPMs pick up when you move the handlebars (like in a slow turn).
The idle can be adjusted once the bike is warm, by turning the larger of the 2 screws on the carburetor (the smaller one to the left is the air mixture). Clockwise, increases the idle speed. Higher idle will make the bike easier to start, it will run better when cold. Too high and the bike will pull forward when you put it in gear (the bike should be able to idle in 1st gear, at a stand still with the brakes off and not start moving forward; a very small pull is OK, but, with the brake off, if you have to strain your feet to hold it back, turn the idle down). I like the sound the bike makes at a slow idle, but too slow and the bike will tend to die when it is cold.
Optional: install and hook up the blinkers
Congratulations, you now ready to have years of fun on your new bike!
Known Issues and Recommendations:
Chain Rubs on chain guard: The master link is wider than the rest of the chain, when it goes around it can hit the guard or the guard screw. Solution, remove the forward guard screw and reinstall it with a washer between the guard and the swing arm (fix courtesy of an old Honda mechanic).
Call (closed) (M-Sat. 9-6 PST)
BACK TO SUPPORT